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Just need to Vent
I'm so tired of having delays on this build. Just found out the gauges I have the tach doesn't work correctly. They were supposed to have already been calibrated and working correctly when I purchased them. The owner kept the originals so I had to buy another set. This is not the first time that I have been sold a part that claims to be in mint condition only to find out I got screw again. A lot of money down the drain. I don't buy my stuff off ebay, I look for other sources. Seems like its another delay of a week and move on and it something else so another week there, it's adding up quick trying to get this car done.
Ray |
That sucks Ray. Makes you feel like it's never going to get finished. Can you work on other areas of the car while waiting for the gauges?
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Seems like nothing is easy there days.
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I will be at the show, since I'm working the vendors gates. Won't miss it.
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Anytime you work on a car, its always seems to go "One step forward, Two steps back". At least thats how it works for me. :D Call it Murphys law.;)
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Hey Brian, how is your car going doing? Did you install a new cam?
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Been there, done that... no matter how many delays you have, it always becomes "worth it" in the end when you can enjoy it.
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The engine is pretty much done. I ended up rebuilding the whole top end.Installed new valves,pushrods,springs,roller tip rockers and of course new cam and lifters. I'm also getting a new oilpan because the old one was so rusty, I didn't want to take a chance of developing leaks later on.While I'm at it, I'm going to throw in a new oil pump just to be safe. I'm also trying to figure out how I'm going to remove the front coil springs without the engine in. I figure it would be alot easier to remove the upper and lower "A" arms so I can replace the 40 year old bushings. |
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Removing the springs is easy. You can use Berner's method if there is not enough weight on the front end. Disconnect the lower ball joint, support the lower a-arm with the floor jack. You may have to remove the backing plate because the lower part of the spindle, around the ball joint, sticks into a slot in the backing plate. Swing the spindle out of the way and lower the jack, jack stand under frame. Once the a-arm is all the way down give the spring a swift kick :D, or just grab hold of it and pull it out, it's not under tension. I wrestled with a spring compressor on one side then realized you can pop the spring in and out by hand once the a-arm is all the way down.
EDIT: Maybe it's the a-arm that sticks through the backing plate. Anyway if you're replacing all 4 bushings you can disconnect either ball joint to start with or both. |
Never used a spring compressor on mine, used a steel rod through the shock mount hole and a couple of blocks of wood under the lower arm
http://s777.photobucket.com/albums/y...Compressor.jpg http://s777.photobucket.com/albums/y...nRightSide.jpg http://s777.photobucket.com/albums/y...compressor.jpg |
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"Classic Car owners Law" or in my case "Chevelle's Law" |
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