engine mount bolts
 

I need to pull the bolts out of my engine mounts and re-install them correctly. The dumb *@$@ I bought the car from left out the washers and I also need to flip them around so the threads face forward (I'll have to remove the fuel pump on the one side to get the bolt out) . To do this I'll need to release the pressure off the bolts. What is the best way to do it?

Thanks-John

I just put a 2x4 under the oil pan and used a bottle jack to lift the motor a little to get the pressure off.

I used a short piece of 2x4, stood on end on a floor jack up against the oil pan rail.

That would be a good way to get the bolt out on the side with the fuel pump, I'm sure you could tilt the motor engough to get the bolt out.

It works good if you only need to lift one side, like when trying to snake a long tube header in.

if I place the block on the rear of the oil pan-the reservoir location, will that work or does it need to be at the side rail?

John..That will work fine...use some rags on the block too.
Remember to go easy with the jack...it dont take much to move the engine.
or to dent the pan...go easy.!

That's why I use the side rail, you're basically pushing against the block, not the pan.

I may be wrong but I think the right side bolt goes in with the threads forward so you can take it out without removing the fuel pump but for some reason the left side goes in with the threads pointing to the back.

I can look at the factory assembly again but I think they both go in with threads forward. That's how mine is and I'm sure I looked at the assembly manual when I put it together.

My manual says left hand side threads toward back right hand side the opposite.

Okay then, guess I,m not remembering correctly, been a few years.

I've only seen it threads facing forward both bolts.

I personally don't see why both bolts can't have the threads facing forward. I'm only saying the assembly manual says the left one's threads face back and the other side is opposite.

I just pulled my engine. The right bolt was in back to front. The left was front to back. I believe that was because you can't get the left in from back to front due to a lack of space.

I think I may have come up with a way to remove the bolt on the fuel pump side without taking out the pump. If I can cut off the head of the bolt and push it back out towards the rear, I can then insert the new bolt from the rear and essentially never mess with the pump. I think I have enough room to get a sawzaw in there with a sharp metal cutting blade and cut that off. Any thoughts?

If its a Grade 8 bolt will a Sawzaw cut thru it. If not could you get in there with a cut off wheel. As you jack the motor there is a point where the bolt should become loose enough to remove by hand but if you jack the motor too much it will become tight again. I use a bottle jack and piece of 2x4 also. You want this piece of wood to be long enough so it goes past each side of the pan by at least an inch.

I think it would be easier to remove the lines and 2 bolts from the fuel pump, just my opinion. As mentioned cutting through a hardened bolt won't be easy.

I have to agree with you the only thing John has to remember is when he reinstalls the fuel pump he has to make sure the rod that works the fuel pump is pushed up or he'll never get the pump back in.

That's why I'd rather try cutting the bolt than removing the pump. Didn't want to mess with the push rod. Of course, I'd be prepared to go that route if indeed the bolt didn't cut well or I don't have the space to really work in. Just thought I'd bring it up. thanks for the feed back.

Smear wheel bearing grease on it, that will usually hold it up there. Grease will melt and mix with oil after starting engine, won't hurt anything.