fusible link??
 

OK so we started working on the car the other day and i went to do some more tuning to the motor. but it didnt want to crank. Now a few weeks ago my buddy who helped me with the car put in a 20 amp fast acting fuse. the harness had something like this
http://visforvoltage.org/files/u1786/NewFuseBox.jpg

I checked the fuse and it was blown. replaced the fuse with another 20amp fuse. started the motor had it running and tuned the carb some and adjusted the timing a little more. went to work on the lights that i am having issues with today and i noticed that fuse was blown again. so i started to look around and i noticed another red wire just sitting there with black tape on the end. I am guessing it goes to the little junction for the horn relay.

what should i do with this wire? what should do about this fuse issue as well?

Is that feeding the interior via the bulkhead connector? If so a 20 amp fast blow isn't going to cut it. Look at the fuses in the fuse block, add them up and it's a lot more than 20 amps. Now you shouldn't be pushing them all to the limit but you could easily exceed 20 amps. There should be a 16 gauge fusible link wire from the horn relay to the main splice in the harness, that feeds the fuse block. There should also be a 14 gauge fusible link wire between the battery positive post and the junction block on the rad support.

Unlike a fuse a fusible link wire can withstand a momentary direct short or temporary overload without blowing. Unless you've added high current draw accessories to the interior I would reinstall the fusible link wire and get rid of the fuse.

yeah like i said that fuse was on the harness when i got the car. which is why i was thinking about getting a new harness. I am going to have to search to see where i can get a fusible link then. i will snap a picture of the two wires i am talking about

is this what you are talking about?
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...=fusible+link#

That's it Shaun but that one is 14 gauge. I believe the one you need is the 16 gauge one. If you can shoot a pic that would help. When/if you install it just make sure it's not bundle tight with the other wires. The wire inside will melt if you have an extended overload. The insulation may even melt but it won't catch on fire. If bundled tight with other wire it could possibly melt and catch the insulation of those wires on fire.

My alt shorted internally and blew the fusible link off the battery positive post. The fusible link did it's job and melted open, protecting the rest of the wiring. I picked up a coil of fusible wire at Auto Value, only a few bucks. Not sure how long it is but it's over 10'. The short was gone when I tested things but returned when I started the engine and spun the alt. Having a coil of the wire was good because I didn't have to buy more after I replaced the alt.

see being a noob to this i didn't know. I went to advance and i found a fusible link i am going to try it tomorrow and see what happens but i wanted to know what this is for
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps30bb47ee.jpg

I got my brake lights figured out now time to figure out the headlights :)

Sorry, you do need the 14 gauge fusible link. You mentioned the horn relay and I thought you were working on the other side of the car.

The red wire should go to a junction block mounted on the rad core support behind the battery. It runs over to the main splice and then the horn relay. The fusible link should connect the pigtail off the positive battery cable to junction block as well. Attached is diagram of the main electrical wiring.

its so funny before i saw your post i was thinking about it and it hit me! exactly what you posted. I knew it was that this is what it was! i am going to get a junction block for mine see if i can find one that should be there

My car looks like this behind my battery
http://chevelleforum.org/picture.php...pictureid=3677

Yea believe it or not that is missing from my car. That little junction box