[shadowgray396]

Here'a another post I used when I did mine. Do only one hinged at a time and start with the top one. sorry they are a little long, but worth reading. Since you already have the fenders off, the hinges will be easier to get too.

You need to determine if the hinges need replacement because the bushing holes are enlarged from wear or if you can get away with new bushings and pins. New hinges cost about $100 per door or $15 for new pins and bushings for both doors. It was an easy decision to try to rebuild the hinges due to cost. You can't really determine your particular situation until you remove the door and disassemble the hinge. This would also be a good time to determine if you need different or larger bushings. For example the rebuild kit I ordered included 8 smaller bushings and 2 larger serrated bushings. According to the blurb in the catalog only 1 serrated large bushing is needed for the lower hinge in the top hole. For my particular application I also needed additional large serrated bushings for both holes in the top hinge. They're .53 so order 6 more and the rebuild kit and you'll be ready for whatever your chevelle will require. Here are the steps I used which included the instructions from Mark, Steve and Von (Thanks again gentlemen).

1) Roll down the window, open the door fully and use a hydraulic jack and a 2X4 about the length of the door to support the bottom of the door. Do not put pressure on the door - you only need to support the door with the jack placed in the middle.

2)Mark the outline of the hinges with a marker. If you don't mind a little paint I found it easier to spray some primer on the hinge area since it's difficult to get a mark you can see on the curved upper portion. Once you remove the door the outilne of the hinge will be readily apparent with the paint. I wouldn't get to worried since the hinge area will have rust on the door hinge area and you can mark it better when the door is removed.

3) Get a helper to balance the door when you remove it. Note: YOU NEED A HELPER TO REMOVE THE DOOR. Don't try to unfasten the bolts and remove the door by yourself. I was surprised at how heavy the door was and that the hinges lasted even this long. With a helper ready to balance the door by the handle (the jack will hold the door up) you can start to remove the hinge to door bolts. There are 3 bolts per hinge that can be removed with a 1/2" socket and wrench. You need to remove the 2 inner bolts with the wrench since the socket and ratchet won't fit. Remove the inner bolts on both hinges with the wrench. The final bolts will still hold the door. Tell your helper to be ready and remove the lower bolt with the ratchet and then the upper. If you use this order the door won't twist and possibly fall off the jack when the bolts are removed. I removed the last bolts by supporting the door by the mirror with my left arm and removing the bolts with the ratchet with my right arm. The door should lower slightly and you can roll it away on the jack with your helper. Don't lower the jack since you can use it as a guide when reinstalling the door. Place the door a good distance away since there is a high probability you'll knock it over or dent it if it's in the immediate vicinity. If possible try to lay it on the upholstered side on a blanket.

4) With the door removed you have access to the hinges. This is decision time since you can either repair the hinge on the car or remove it and do it on the bench. The advantage of doing it on the car is that you don't need to worry about reinstalling the hinge to body bolts which must be exact since they adjust the door up and down and fore and aft. The advantge of doing it on the bench is that you can use a vise and have better access. I decided to repair the hinge on the car using a 6 inch C clamp.The steps should be the same for bench repair using a vise.

5) You need to remove the large detent spring on the bottom hinge to allow removal of the hinge pin. This is the only place I did not use a subtle approach. Be very careful with removal since this spring is the size of a valve spring and can cause injury and havoc if it lets loose. Clear the work area of loved ones and pets. Note: THIS WAS MY APPROACH - YOU ARE FREE TO DETERMINE YOUR OWN COURSE OF ACTION.

Place a towel over the lower hinge. With a pry bar or large screwdriver sit on the drivers seat and place another towel by the edge of the door pillar. Place the the pry bar under the spring and leverage against the door pillar while turning your head and cringing. The spring will pop out without poking your eye out since the towel will confine its energy. Place the spring by your bench vise since you'll have to deal with this nasty bugger again.

6) You now have access to the pins for removal. You will notice two pins on each of the hinges. The ones closet to the pillar are just door stops for the upper and detent roller for the bottom. The detent roller was OK for my application and I did not remove it.

Mark the top of the upper hinge to door part of the hinge to make sure you don't install it upside down. The bottom will be self evident with the detent lever on top.

The upper pin was placed from bottom up and the lower was inserted from the top. I started with the lower hinge by removing the stake marks from the bottom pin. The stake marks looked like they were created by chiseling the the outside of the pin on each side to make a sliver of metal protrude to prevent the pin from working losse. I laid on a creeper and chiseled straight into the sliver where it started to be formed. It came right off - your luck may vary and you might have to resort to a small grinder. The upper pin did not have stake marks. The following procedure was used on both hinges.