Quote:
Originally Posted by chevymaher
That is where i be looking first. Ground straps. Car to frame. Frame to core support. Block to frame. Battery to block. Did you just cross the solenoid with a screwdriver? Eliminate body wiring see if that does it.
|
Battery to block, alternator bracket in this case. That's the only ground required to turn the starter over. Everything on the engine is grounded through the engine and main negative cable back to the battery. The small pigtail off the negative cable to fender provides the chassis ground. The ground for lights, dash, etc. That's the only 2 grounds on my car and I haven't had one electrical issue in 12 years. In fact if you have all those other ground straps you mentioned but not a good connection from the engine to battery you'll fry that chassis ground cable. It will try to handle starter current and it ain't big enough. The engine to firewall and frame straps were only on some cars depending on year and radio option. They were a poor attempt to limit the ignition from causing electrical noise in the radio.
In theory the voltage drop across the solenoid should be 12v. One side is ground the other side gets 12v from ignition switch. If it doesn't drop 12v across the solenoid I'd be looking at the engine ground. Battery cables as well.