Slowest 1970 Chevelle build! - Page 7

Berg · #61 10-07-2011, 12:44 PM

I got a rebuilt master cylinder and sprayed it with cast blast to keep it from rusting. I clear coated the top cover and hold-downs with a high temp clear to help preserve it. I painted the steering shaft with the same paint. It seems pretty durable and it looks like it belongs that way so it is good enough for me. That is the original brake booster I took off and cleaned up. It is in good condition so I didn't feel the need to replace it. The brake lines with the exception of the line from the distribution block to the rear brake hose are in good condition so I cleaned them up where they needed it. I got new wheel cylinders for the rear and will do the calipers when I rebuild the front end. I'll clean up the A arms when I change the springs and bushings. While I had the column out of the car I cleaned up the end and changed the base plate for the 4 speed. I got a reproduction from Inline Tube. It fit OK, some of the holes were slightly off but nothing that couldn't be made to work with ease. The new replacement gasket on the other hand left something to be desired. The holes are punched off by around 1/8" to 1/4" off and the hole for the column to pass through is too small. The hole for the 4 speed knockout could have actually been a little smaller but It'll do for now. It turns out I got the wrong Z-bar when I bought the clutch linkage but that's what happens when you aren't totally familiar with what you are dealing with. At least the piece is a genuine GM, looks to be maybe for a 73-77 Chevelle, El Camino, or Monte Carlo piece. The rest of the hardware was correct. I had to grind down 2 welds on the frame from where a chain was used to hold the engine down. I guess it was cut away when the previous owner went with Moroso solid motor mounts. I'll be running Energy Suspension poly motor mounts with an internal locking design so I don't have to worry about needing any kind of chain or cable. I'd like to clean up the wiper motor a little more in the future but it isn't really a priority at the moment. I know it looks like hell.

Berg · #62 10-07-2011, 12:55 PM

I noticed a small crack in the dash carrier right below the column when I removed the tach that was mounted on the column. It isn't anything I'm going to bother replacing the dash over, I just know it is there. I found 2 wires on the ignition system that were tapped into for a toggle switch and a push button. I have since removed all non-factory wiring and fixed wiring. Once the engine is in I will be adding a new oil pressure gauge just to keep an eye on things but I'll cross that bridge later. On a better note, I realized that my FM stereo is also an 8 track player! I thought I didn't have one anymore when i sold my black car. I guess I get to keep all my 8 tracks now!

Berg · #63 10-07-2011, 12:56 PM

Berg · #64 10-07-2011, 01:02 PM

Here is a shot of the frame bracket for the Z bar, or Bellcrank, or whatever you'd like to call it.

Here is a picture of the 454 I've been tripping over in my garage. Right now the car is taking up 2 bays of a 3 bay garage.

Berg · #65 10-07-2011, 01:49 PM

I forgot to mention that I took out a whole milk crate full of wiring, switches, relays, and buttons that has been added to the car over the years.

Berg · #66 10-11-2011, 08:10 AM

I got the engine in with the correct oil pan so no more hitting the crossmember which is a good thing. I was able to get it together with the new flywheel, clutch, and bellhousing. I chose to go with the Valeo diaphragm clutch and new GM flywheel. This weekend I went to a swap meet and bought an oval port intake manifold to get rid of the low rise cast iron one that is on it. I'm probably going to rebuild one of my Holley 4150's with mechanical secondaries too. My biggest issue was header fitment on the drivers side. I had to pull the steering shaft out of the car and jack up the engine again with the temp sending unit out of it and the oil filter off to get the damn thing in there. The good news about the headers is I know they'd fit in one way or another because I had everything mocked up in the other car before I dropped the 400 back in it. It turns out the Z bar I got for the clutch linkage is incorrect but it shouldn't take much at all to make it fit until I track down the right one. I got the M20 under the car and took out the bolts for the shifter but left the mounting plate on. I'm going to figure out what has to be trimmed from the tunnel for the shifter to clear and then I'll spot weld the shifter hump in place.

Berg · #67 10-11-2011, 08:12 AM

Berg · #68 10-11-2011, 08:24 AM

In the second and third picture you can see the 1/8" Tee fitting I put in for the oil pressure sending unit and the tap for the mechanical gauge. There is a small hole in the firewall that I'm going to run copper line through with a grommet. I don't trust the plastic line that comes with gauge kits from chain stores. I figure the factory used copper line for years so I would do the same. Eventually when I get the money I plan on buying an oil pressure gauge with an electronic sending unit so no oil has to be plumbed into the passenger compartment. I originally planned on installing the engine and trans together but ended up instead installing the engine with the bellhousing but the transmission removed. It went right in with little difficulty and I actually had room to leave the radiator if I felt like it. I had plenty of clearance around everything and there is still room behind the HEI distributor against the firewall. Once everything is the way I want it I want to pick up an Accel corrected-cap but I feel I'll probably have to make custom wires to use it. I'll have to see if anyone out there has a wire set with that cap that I like the way the wires are run. After I get the driveshaft and the parking brake squared away I'll be on to doing the wiring with the MSD 6AL box.

Berg · #69 10-11-2011, 08:36 AM

I should have cleaned up the transmission better but it isn't the one I plan on keeping in the car. If I do end up keeping it in there I'll probably do synchros and reseal it. I can't wait to get this thing moving under its own power. The woman enrolled in the nursing program and is taking night classes so it free'd up some time for me here and there after work and I lost my overtime for now so I look like I'm good till December to work on it.

Berg · #70 10-11-2011, 08:42 AM

[IMG]http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p296/K5Blazer4speed/1970%20SS396%20Chevelle/109_1086.jpg[/IMG
The power steering lines still had the little metal spring clip and the steering box had the pressure hose holder still in place and I left them in place as original. I'd like to get a new return hose on there but I misplaced the one I had gotten. To be quite honest, I'm missing a good amount of things from my garage. I know I can misplace things time to time but this is above and beyond that. I'm working on that issue now. Other than that I can get a new power steering belt and move along for now.